Paris Panoramic Tour

Tips for an efficient travel

Your tour starts the Arc de Triomphe. You can get there by metro or train. The station is called Charles de Gaulle - Etoile.

If you have not used public transport in Paris yet, please read the instructions below.

• If you plan to continue using public transport, you'd better buy the Navigo Semaine travel card (it is valid for a week with an unlimited number of trips).

• If you only need to make a few trips, feel free to take Carnet for 10 trips. The cost of such a ticket will be 14.90 euros.

• Use google maps or moovit to plan your itinerary.

So, we are standing in front of the Arc de Triomphe.

You might know that from the time of ancient Rome, it was customary to celebrate victories with the erection of triumphal arches.

In the same way Napoleon I planned the construction of the arch to honour those who fought and died for France in the French Revolutionary and Napoleonic Wars. However, Napoleon never saw the finished arch. The work was completed in 1836, during the reign of King Louis-Philippe.

Architect Jean-François Chalgrin who designed the arch was inspired by the Roman Arch of Titus, but went beyond it by exceptional dimensions (about 50 m high, 45 m long and 22 m wide) and abandoning columns.

Following its construction, the Arc de Triomphe became the rallying point of French troops parading after successful military campaigns and for the annual Bastille Day military parade. Famous victory marches around or under the Arc have included the Germans in 1871, the French in 1919, the Germans in 1940, and the French and Allies in 1944 and 1945.

Today the arch still remains one of the most emblematic places in Paris. There is an observation deck on the top. If you decide to visit it, please note that the elevator only does partway and you will climb about 280 stairs to the top.

If you choose to climb the arch, you will enjoy one of the best panoramic views of Paris with La Defence, Tour Eiffel on the horizon and the beautiful streets of Paris forming a star (Etoile) right under your feet. (This is actually where the official name comes from).

Even if you decide not to climb, try to visit the base of the Arc de Triomphe. To safely reach the monument, follow the underground passageway on the Champs-Elysées that comes up at the base of the Arc de Triomphe.

Inside, you'll see the names of 660 generals. On the exterior - the grand reliefs. You'll recognize the face of Napoleon looking very much like a Roman emperor and being crowned with a wreath of victory while holding a protective hand over the city of Paris. Paris is wearing a crown of city walls.

Below the Arch lies the Tomb of an Unknown Soldier killed in World War I, which was placed here in 1921.

Every evening at 6:30 pm the eternal flame at the tomb is rekindled, a tradition that wasn't even interrupted during Nazi occupation of Paris.

In autumn 2021 the memorial was covered in 25,000 sq m (270,000 sq ft) of plastic wrapping. The idea was first imagined by Bulgarian-born artist Christo, known for wrapping famous landmarks in fabric.

The Christo and Jeanne-Claude team has created the Arc de Triomphe, Wrapped, as Christo wished this project to be continued after his death.

The project was entirely funded by the Estate of Christo V. Javacheff, through the sale of Christo's preparatory studies, drawings, and collages of the project as well as scale model works from the 1950s and 1960s, and original lithographs on other subjects. It received no public funds.

A bit of history

Now open the GPS, that you are using map and follow the street called Victor Hugo up to the Place Victor Hugo.

Do not forget to look around: there are beautiful mansions and expensive shops all along the street.

On the way, you will see the Nicolas store. You may have come across one of those before. Nicolas is a decent liquor shop, where you can choose local wine for the evening.

And while you walk, I will say a couple of words about Paris and its history.

The history of Paris started with Ile de la Cite which we will be visiting during the second part of the panoramic tour. But the Left Bank, where we are now walking, actually hosts two roman vestiges:

• Arènes de Lutèce, a major center of the city where people went to watch games, gladiatorial contests, plays, and concerts;
• the remains of a Roman well, situated near the Sorbonne;
• the Roman Baths, located closer to Pantheon where we will be ending our tour today.

Not too much left, as you can see. Actually, most of Paris’ modern buildings have developed gradually out of earlier styles; palaces and mansions have survived by transforming into apartments and shops, and most streets harbour a range of buildings from various centuries.

Place Victor Hugo

Let's make a short stop at Place Victor Hugo. Take a look around: the place is surrounded by neat French cafes and terraces. On the corner, you will see a small church.

Do you remember who Victor Hugo is?

Right, French writer, one of the main figures of French romanticism, political and public figure, French senator and author of immortal works such as Notre-Dame de Paris, Les Misérables and The Man Who Laughs.

Do you know what else Hugo was famous for?

He opposed the death penalty!

Palace Trocadero

Ready to move on?

Find Raymond Poincare street and hit the road. The next stop is Trocadero Square.

And while you are moving, I will say a few words about the square and the palace that you will see on it.

So, confusion constantly arises with the Trocadero Palace. Some call it the Trocadero palace, others use the official name - the Palace de Chaillot.

So it is: both the palace and the area around it actually changed their name several times. In the second half of the 16th century the land on the right bank of the River Seine, named after the village of Chaillot located there, belonged to Queen Catherine de Medici. The new name of the area appeared in 1827 after the success of the French army during the Franco-Spanish war at the storming of Fort Trocadero.

Chaillot Hill was landscaped for the 1867 Paris World's Fair. The first Trocadero Palace was built for the World Exhibition of 1878. Its style was a mixture of exotic and historical references, generally called “Moorish” but with some Byzantine elements.

For the World Exhibition of 1937, the old Trocadero Palace was partially demolished and partially rebuilt. The new palace got the name Palais de Chaillot and was designed in the then fashionable Art Deco style.

The Palais de Chaillot

This grandiose site, perpetually crowded with tourists and vendors selling a variety of knick-knacks and snacks, has a complicated and somewhat sinister history.

After the Nazi army, led by Adolf Hitler, invaded Paris in 1940, staging a triumphant parade on the Champs-Elysées and beneath the Arc de Triomphe, Hitler stopped at the Palais de Chaillot. He posed for a photo on its large terrace along with two of his officers.

Later, in 1948, this was the site of a special meeting of the United Nations General Assembly. Following the end of World War II in 1945, in which millions of Europeans had perished on battlefields and in death camps, the United Nations General Assembly gathered at the same site to sign the Universal Declaration of Human Rights. This was an apt place to do it, too, with the "Musee de l'Homme" anthropology museum onsite.

Walk through the esplanade to enjoy a wonderful view of the beautiful Eiffel Tower. Actually many tourists stumble on this complex without realizing what it is or what it has to offer—aside from its breathtaking views over the Eiffel Tower.

You will be one of those who know the story. Still, do not miss the opportunity to take a couple of beautiful pictures.

Eiffel Tower

Are you ready? Go down the stairs and move towards the river. From here, across the bridge and you are already at the foot of the Eiffel Tower! Perhaps the main symbol of Paris.

Today, only the lazy one doesn't know that the Eiffel Tower was built for the 1889 World Trade Fair and how much the townspeople disliked it.

But we will still try to share some new and curious facts with you.

Sooo, here they are:

• The tower was built by Gustave Eiffel’s civil engineering firm in two years, two months, and five days, using 7,500 tons of iron and 2.5 million rivets.

• It was built with the intent of showing off France’s industrial progress during the World’s Fair, but the plan was to tear it down after 20 years. In order to save his creation, Eiffel had put a radio antenna and wireless telegraph transmitter in the Tower, and the government eventually decided it was too useful to demolish.

• Gustave Eiffel designed a private apartment for himself in the tower to host famous guests, such as Thomas Edison. The apartment is now open for the public to tour.

• When Germany occupied France during World War II, Hitler ordered the Eiffel Tower to be destroyed. French resistance fighters cut the Tower’s elevator cables so the Nazis were forced to climb the stairs to hoist their flag.

• There is a tiny post office in the tower. You can mail your postcard with a unique postmark.

• Mr Eiffel housed a meteorology lab on the Tower’s third floor where he performed studies in physics, and aerodynamics, and built a wind tunnel.

• The Eiffel Tower is covered with the names of scientists.

The Champ de Mars

Pass the Eiffel Tower, walk along the Champ de Mars and don't forget to turn around. Thus, you are sure to find the perfect point for your photo.

Today the Champ de Mars is a large public greenspace in Paris. And one would not say it used to witness some of the key events in French history.

On 14 July 1790 here was held the first "Federation Day" celebration, now known as Bastille Day.

The following year, the grand massacre took place here.

Another couple of years later Jean Sylvain Bailly, the first mayor of Paris, became a victim of his own revolution and was guillotined in the middle of the champ.

Later on, the lawns of the champ were used as drilling and marching grounds by the French military.

The only thing that reminds us of these events now is the name: champ de Mars is a tribute to the Roman god of war.

École Militaire

This beautiful complex in front of us is L’École Militaire, The Military School. Both an institution of higher military education founded in 1750 by King Louis XV and a set of buildings built in the 18th century by the king's architect Ange-Jacques Gabriel.

Louis XV decided to found the military school after the end of the War of the Austrian Succession in 1748. France was victorious, but the fighting has shown the lack of well-trained officers to command the royal regiments.

Madame Pompadour, the mistress of the king, was the one who supported the project. And the financier Joseph Pâris Duverney suggested founding a college, an academy for about 500 people born in poor families: besides the military training, it would give them the opportunity to attend a real school.

The construction was not easy for the state. Soon after the beginning, the work stopped because of the lack of money. The many wars waged by Louis XV completely emptied the royal treasury and the architects struggled to raise the necessary funds to continue the work.

But in spite of all the difficulties, in 1756, the school finally opened its doors. It first welcomed 200 young men instead of 500, which helped to cut the costs.

Later on, the school subsequently welcomed the greatest officers and men of war in the country, including the famous Napoleon Bonaparte.

Today, the officers are still trained between these walls.

A bit of history part 2

Now pick Hotel des Invalides on the map and start moving. As you will see there are quite a lot of buildings in Paris built under Louis XIV's reign. No surprise: the reign of France’s Louis XIV (1638-1715), known as the Sun King, lasted for 72 years, longer than that of any other known European sovereign.

During that time, he transformed the monarchy, ushered in a golden age of art and literature, annexed key territories and established his country as the dominant European power.

At the same time, Louis actually disliked Paris. He had suffered through a turbulent childhood regency and he distrusted the city. He actually was the one who moved the royal Court to the Palace of Versailles, leaving behind a great Louvre.

He left urban planning to his superintendent of finance, Jean-Baptiste Colbert, who understood the symbolic importance of Paris. Colbert commissioned buildings inspired by Rome, so that Paris represents Louis XIV's power, much as Rome represented the might of the Roman Empire.

This style gained ground, especially in the 18th and 19th Centuries. But for this period, the most clearly Classical of Colbert’s legacies is the Hôtel des Invalides, built in 1671. The famous dome of the Invalides was directly inspired by St. Peter’s in Rome, and the overall design of the Invalides complex is Classical.

L’hôtel des Invalides

Standing at the front entrance of Invalides, you can see how the Classical style that we mentioned before combined with Baroque. The Baroque influence gave us the symmetrical wings, strong window treatments, and monumentality of the building.

Although Baroque first appeared in Italy in 1590, it reached its apogee in France 50 years later, right under the omnipotent reign of Louis XIV. The style’s emphasis on grand floor plans, superhuman massive figures, and the illusion of infinite distance were qualities that suited the Sun King, who used architecture to reflect his political clout.

In some of the hôtels that line the esplanade of Invalides, you’ll notice a new French invention of this period: the Mansard roof, the distinctive double-sloped roof line created by François Mansart.

The Hôtel des Invalides was ordered by Louis XIV, to accommodate the invalids of his armies.

Same as his predecessors Henri II, Henri III, Henri IV, King Louis XIV wished to provide help and assistance to the disabled soldiers of his armies; so that “those who have risked their lives and shed their blood in defence of the monarchy (…) may spend the rest of their days in peace”, says the royal edict of March 12, 1670.

Nevertheless, beyond the humanitarian gesture, Louis XIV also had perfectly political intentions.

Most of these invalids came from the Thirty Years' War. Poor and abandoned they were hanging out on the Pont Neuf, often involved in street brawls, and caused the discontent of the population.

The king rehoused some of the invalids in the abbeys by imposing them as oblates, thus helping to strengthen the ranks of the clergy. But after all both soldiers and clergy despised these solutions. The Invalides escaped a strict monastic life to become beggars or thieves.

As soon as you enter the main courtyard, you will see a collection of artillery retracing 200 years of history. Inside the building hosts various museums, including the Army Museum which presents one of the most exceptional collections of military history in Europe, if not in the world.

Let's continue

Don't forget to take a photo with the Hotel des Invalides before moving on to the famous bridge named after the Russian Emperor Alexander III. This bridge has been inaugurated on the occasion of the 1900 Universal Exhibition. As you have already noticed many of the famous buildings have been built for one or another of the World Exhibitions.

Actually, the world exhibitions or fairs were the unique events that attracted the whole progressive world. This is why they were of extreme importance to the hosting countries.

The Exposition Universelle of 1900 was to celebrate the achievements of the past century and to accelerate development into the next.

Major structures built for the 1900 Universal Exhibition included the Grand Palais, the Petit Palais, the Pont Alexandre III, the Gare d'Orsay railroad station and the entrances of Paris Métro stations by Hector Guimard; all of them remaining today.

Grande Roue de Paris Ferris wheel, the Rue de l'Avenir moving sidewalk, the first-ever regular passenger trolleybus line, escalators, diesel engines, electric cars, dry cell batteries, electric fire engines, talking films, the telegraphone and the matryoshka dolls are some of the innovations displayed at the Fair.

Pont Alexandre III

Pont Alexandre III connects the Invalides on the Left Bank to the Grand Palais and Petit Palais on the Right Bank. From this point, you can enjoy a sweeping view of these buildings. And if you turn around you will see the Eiffel Tower. This is one of the popular places for a stroll at any time of day or night.

At the four extremities, you can see the gilt winged horses. They represent the illustrious Arts, Sciences, Commerce and Industry.

This bridge has been inaugurated on the occasion of the 1900 Universal Exhibition although the foundation stone of the bridge was laid in person by Tsar Nicholas II of Russia in 1896, thereby symbolising Franco-Russian relations.

The bridge is named after Alexander III, the father of Nicholas II. He was the one to conclude the Franco-Russian Alliance in 1892. There are Nymphs on the bridge that also represent the relations between the two countries. The Nymph of the Seine has relief from the arms of Paris and faces the Nymphs of the Neva with the arms of Imperial Russia.

Between April and November 1900, during the Universal Exhibition, the bridge was visited by more than 50 million people. This popularity inspired several replicas in various parts of the world, including Las Vegas.

In August 1944 the Grand Palais was attacked and burned, the fighting that took place in the vicinity led to some damage to the bridge. Later on, it has been restored to the pearl grey that was its original hue.

The Concorde Bridge

Let’s continue walking along the Seine bank till the next bridge. This is a Concorde bridge.

This bridge connects the Quai des Tuileries at the Place de la Concorde on the opposite side and the Quai d'Orsay where we now stand.

This bridge has changed many names. Formerly known as the "Pont Louis XVI", "Pont de la Révolution", "Pont de la Concorde" it became "Pont Louis XVI" again during the Bourbon Restoration, and then changed its name again to Pont de la Concorde.

The Quai d'Orsay

The Quai d'Orsay has historically played an important role in French art as a location to which many artists came to paint along the banks of the River Seine.

Now here stands the famous Museum d’Orsay. This is the place that you should definitely visit in your spare time. Orsay is famous for its vast collection of Impressionist paintings. It holds the largest number of famous impressionists such as — Monet, Manet, Pissarro, Morisot, and Renoir.

St Germain-des-Pres

Let’s leave the embankment now and take the St Germain-des-Pres street to go deeper into the Paris Rive Gauche (Left Bank). While you walk, I will tell you a couple of words about St Germain-des-Pres, which is also the name of the whole district. Like many other places in Paris, St Germain-des-Pres witnessed important events and saw eminent people.

But until the 17th century, the land where you are now walking was prone to flooding from the Seine, and little building took place there. It was pure open fields, or "prés" in French, which gave the quarter and then the street their name. One of the few buildings that stood here was the Benedictine abbey founded in the 6th century. The church of this abbey, dedicated by Germain, Bishop of Paris, soon became the burial place of the dynasty of Merovingian Kings.

As often happened in the Middle age, the Abbey developed into a major centre of scholarship and learning. And later on, a village grew up around, which had about six hundred inhabitants by the 12th century. It still was not part of Paris, but already an important religious and cultural centre and also… marketplace, thanks to its annual fair, which attracted merchants and vendors from all over Europe. The Foire Saint-Germain was already famous in 1176. And in 1483 there were three hundred forty stalls here.

The fair was not only famous for the trading, but also for the gambling, debauchery, and the riots and after the revolution in 1789 it was closed.

Les Deux Magots

Can you see the cafe on your right? There is another one on your left. Les Deux Magots and the Brasserie Lipp are their names.

I would not really advise you to drink your coffee here. But you definitely must know the story behind those names. Les Deux Magots once had a reputation as the rendezvous of the literary and intellectual élite of the city.

If you would have come here in the early 20 century, you could easily run into Simone de Beauvoir, Jean-Paul Sartre or even Ernest Hemingway.

Brasserie Lipp

The last one also loved the Brasserie Lipp right across the street. They say his favorite dish was beer, potato salad and Choucroute. The Brasserie was so famous among the representatives of the writing intellectuals, that it even sponsored an annual literary prize, the Prix Cazes, named after its owner.

Paul Verlaine, Guillaume Apollinaire and other artists and poets frequented this place at the beginning of the 20 century. Sneak a peek at the interior. It looks elegant and you can easily imagine the young Hemingway sitting at one of the tables.

By the way, have you got any idea of how the Parisians named the residents of this quarter Germanopratins is the name for them. Ok, now right in front of the cafe Les Deux Magots you will see a church. Please approach it now.

Church of St Germain des Pres

Tadaaam! This is this very abbey, founded in 543, so we are officially standing in front of the oldest church in Paris.

First and foremost, due to its age, the church has had a turbulent history that could have permanently erased it from the face of the city! The Vikings destroyed and burned the edifice in 886 and it was only rebuilt in the year 1000. After the French Revolution (in August 1794), the explosives kept in the church destroyed a portion of the structure. Later, during the massive reconstruction works of Paris in the mid-nineteenth century, Baron Haussmann pulled away parts of the chapel to build the Saint-Germain boulevard.

And although the existing Church of St Germain des Pres is a small fragment of the immense constructions that constituted the rich and powerful abbey, it is still an architectural wonder in roman style – which is rare in Paris – and some structures are more than 1000 years old. Come in if you have time. You will see a rare mix of style and epochs.

Left bank

Let’s cross the street and take the rue Bonaparte. It will lead us to the famous Jardin de Luxembourg. While you walk I will try to explain the essence of the Left Bank (Rive Gauche) that we are now visiting. Paris Left Bank VS Paris Right Bank, this is the eternal debate that animates Parisians, a debate that some sum up with the following sentence: “Money against culture.”

In the 1st century, the Romans developed Lutèce, the city once born on the isle, Ile de la Cite, mainly on the Left Bank of the Seine. They set up a forum, thermal baths and arenas there.

The Left Bank has preserved several vestiges of the Gallo-Roman era such as the Arènes de Lutèce, the Cluny thermal baths and the Latin Quarter. From the 11th century, a new city appeared on the Right Bank thanks to trade from the North. In 1180, Philippe-Auguste ordered the construction of a new wall to protect the city, which was then enlarged by Charles V in 1370. The appearance of this wall organizes the city and its functioning.

On the Left Bank, knowledge with the University of La Sorbonne. On the island of La Cité, political and religious power with the Royal Palace and Notre-Dame Cathedral. On the Right Bank, trade and commerce.

The right bank is much bigger, it encompasses 14 arrondissements which represents more than ⅔ of the capital, against 6 arrondissements for the Left Bank. The Left Bank is therefore often assimilated to Culture for its libraries, high schools and universities, and also for its literary cafes. As you have already noticed, writers and artists loved to gather here.

Jardin du Luxembourg

Paris Rive Gauche is also about the splendid Jardin du Luxembourg, a popular park made up of flowery alleys, majestic trees, magnificent statues, vast playgrounds, fountains, ponds etc. It is also the second-largest park in the city. It is within the gardens that Luxembourg Palace, seat of Senate, and the Luxembourg Museum are located.

The garden was created in 1612 when Marie de' Medici, the widow of King Henry IV, constructed the Luxembourg Palace as her new residence. The queen wanted to build a park in the style she had known as a child in Florence. She had 2,000 elm trees planted, planned two terraces with balustrades and built the Medici Fountain.

By the way, surrounding the central green space are twenty figures of French queens and illustrious women standing on pedestals. They were commissioned by Louis-Philippe in 1848 and include: Anne of Austria, Anne of Brittany, Anne of France, Anne Marie Louise of Orléans, Bertha of Burgundy, Blanche of Castile, Clémence Isaure...

Latin Quarter

Ok, Let’s go on. We have a little left till the end of this part of our journey. It’s time to visit the Latin Quarter. Use the map!

The Latin Quarter has been a hub of learning for centuries. It was a university district where teachers and students spoke Latin until 1789, hence the name Latin Quarter or, in French, “Quartier Latin.” It remains a student neighbourhood today as home to Sorbonne, France's oldest university.

By the way, the oldest cabarets in Paris, Paradis Latin, is also located in the area. It was designed by Gustave Eiffel himself.

Pantheon

One of the most important monuments in the Latin Quarter is the Pantheon, which we are reaching now. This gorgeous edifice was built between 1758 and 1790, from designs by Jacques-Germain Soufflot, at the behest of King Louis XV of France.

The king planned it as a church dedicated to Saint Genevieve, Paris' patron saint, whose relics were to be housed in the church. The foundations were laid in 1758, but due to economic problems work proceeded slowly. This is probably the reason why neither Soufflot nor Louis XV lived to see the church completed.

By the time the construction was finished, the French Revolution had started, and the Church of Saint Genevieve was transformed into a mausoleum for the remains of distinguished French citizens.

This decision was modelled on the Pantheon in Rome which had been used in this way since the 16th century.

The Panthéon was twice restored to church usage in the course of the 19th century. And in 1881 the French Third Republic finally decreed the building's exclusive use as a mausoleum.

Voltaire, Jean-Paul Marat, Jean-Jacques Rousseau, Victor Hugo, Émile Zola and many others have been buried in Pantheon’s necropolis.

The rumours had it that the remains of Voltaire were stolen by religious fanatics in 1814 and thrown into a garbage heap. And in 1897 the philosopher's coffin was opened to reveal his still present remains and to prove these rumours false.

In 2002 the coffin of Alexandre Dumas was also solemnly transported to the Panthéon. In his speech, President Jacques Chirac stated that an injustice was being corrected with the proper honouring of one of France's greatest authors

Our last stop

Okay, guys.

We will now go down the street and end our tour right across the river from the famous Notre Dame de Paris. There starts the second part of the journey. You can either take it right now or continue another day.

Our last stop is the famous Shakespeare and Co, the company that has been frequented by many famous authors (not Shakespeare himself though). Feel free to join us or end here if you prefer.

Shakespeare and Company

Ok, to be honest with you this Shakespeare and Company is not the one that all those famous people used to frequent. Still, it was founded and named after the iconic English-language bookstore. The first one was opened in 1919 by Sylvia Beach and closed in 1941. And this one was created by George Whitman in 1964.

Today, the store continues to serve as a purveyor of new and second-hand books, as an antiquarian bookseller, and as a free reading library open to the public. Just like an old one. Writers and artists of the Lost Generation, such as Ernest Hemingway and F. Scott Fitzgerald, as well as Ezra Pound, Gertrude Stein, George Antheil, Djuna Barnes, Mina Loy, and Man Ray, among others, spent a great deal of time there.

The shop was nicknamed "Stratford-on-Odéon" by James Joyce, who used it as his office. He even published his famous Ulysses at the same bookstore.

The books in this store were considered high quality and reflected Beach's own taste.

Shakespeare and Company closed in December 1941 during the German occupation of France in World War II. It has been suggested that it may have been ordered to shut because Beach denied a German officer the last copy of Joyce's Finnegans Wake.

When the war ended, Hemingway "personally liberated" the store, but it never re-opened.

Time to say goodbye

Seems like a perfect place to end our story for today. There are plenty of cafes and restaurants around this place. They are a bit pricey, but if you want to have a bite with a view of the river, this is the place.

The next part of our journey starts here. We will be glad to welcome you today or any other day on a journey that will lead you through the cradle of Paris and France itself, Ile-de-la-Cite.

Please feel free to join!